Pieter Claesz.
Still Life with a Salt, c.1640–45, Oil on panel, 52.6 cm x 44.1 cm, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam; Bequeathed by Daniël Crena de Iongh, Wilton, Connecticut, SK-A-4839, Courtesy of Rijksmuseum
Worth your Salt
Commentary by Anna Gannon
Painted by Pieter Claesz in a subdued chromatic palette, Still Life with a Salt (c.1640–45) shows ‘breakfast’ set on a white tablecloth at the end of a narrow table. In this deceptively simple composition, reflections and plays of light and shade skilfully convey depth of field. Just a few items are assembled, seemingly casually arranged: a large rummer, filled with beer and studded with prunts to provide a firm grip; a small bread loaf and some salmon, garnished with parsley, on pewter plates; an empty plate in the background; a bejewelled knife; some hazelnuts; and a tall, hexagonal pewter cellar.
The cellar, heaped with salt, is monumental, and commands our attention. It declares the huge economic importance of salt in the prosperity of the Dutch Republic: salt was needed in great quantities for preserving herrings at sea, curing meat and fish, and for cheese- and butter-making. Having exhausted local resources, the quest expanded to other areas. The semi-industrial exploitation of the salt flats of the Cape Verde Islands (Cabo Verde) and Caribbean saw bloody wars fought over them against Spain, which, with the destruction of nature and abuses of slavery in the salt-works, give us the true cost of such a commodity.
Pieter Claesz’s painting is nowadays read by many people not so much as an exquisite proclamation of the wealth of the Dutch Golden Age, but as sober reminder of the terrible evils of greed and slavery.
However, redemption is possible: the cup and bread may allude to the Eucharist, while the bread and the fish remind us of another breakfast, prepared by Jesus by the Sea of Tiberias (John 21:9). In this key, we see a joyful celebration of the beauty of light as captured by the painter, and are invited to imagine salt as it should be, when not commodified for commercial gain: the glistening free gift of God.